Saturday, January 11, 2014

The untrodden path

One of Sri Lanka’s most famous spot’s in the ‘Cultural Triangle’. A bunch of three city bred twenty something newbie hikers and an enormous rock to conquer. ‘Sigiriya Rock’ the locals tell us the name translates to ‘Lions Palace’ Rock.  An ancient rock guarded by a canal-like structure filled with crocodiles guarding it, was our first glimpse. A palace built atop it and bush-covered gardens was what lay in store after a stairway climb requiring 2 hours to cover. The entrance fees stood at 15 dollars (some 1000 Indian Rupees). It was swarming with people all walking in a line up the narrow stairway to the top on one side. We were tipped off that the sight on the top would be one of the best. Then just some 2 km away stood another sister rock, not the original Sigiriya but a rock as high nonetheless, less known and a house to the Pindurangala Cave temples. We read a blog on this place, during our intensive researches prior to every day’s trip. The climb sounded one of thrill. No straight steps, winding broken paths and rocks to climb with monkey-like gait. The allure of this lesser known, off-beat way through the jungle to this same amazing sight, with zero entrance fees had us pumped up.
So off we set, with only brief directions (from the abovementioned blog) to the entrance of this path to the top. A tiny shrine at the foot was where the path starts. There are 2 stairways going in different directions. We randomly pick the left one, after a small discussion assuming all would lead to the top (later we were proved right as we came across criss-crossing pathways). As we climb the tiny steps (Buddhist monks seem to have tiny feet comparatively) walking sideways as our Indian feet are too big to full step, we come across this cove where amidst patch of dark green grass, fallen leaves, pebbles and stones of different sizes is a panorama of big black stones with small steps paved in them ancient-looking tall trees and creepers and vines swish swashing all across. Again a moment to pick between paths. This time, it is the path on the right we choose. From there on the steepness overwhelms our breath. A stop after every ten minutes or so, to catch our breath was needed. During this stretch we meet a bunch of monks robed in maroon satin climbing deftly with no hint of effort on their brow, they smiled as they overtook us. The path was winding and the coolness and scent of forest air engulfs us. The journey to the top had spots where there were water dripping like tiny waterfalls, armies of black and dark red ants crawling in lines , bushes of different coloured flowers, tiny insects and butterflies here and there, stone formations with funny dents and shapes and dark cave like structures. Another surprise on the way was a sleeping Buddha statue some 35 feet tall which made us feel miniscule and a lotus pond nearby more surprising considering the altitude. Narrow and steep ledges where we had to slide through and find grips in rocks to climb up made it adventurous and not a trek for the faint-hearted.

Thus, we arrive to the top some 3 hours later, to what seemed liked the highest point there, towering over miles of landscapes. The view as promised was divine, medleys of water, a whole range of green-shaded landscapes and mist-covered far away mountains, with white and dark grey cotton-ball clouds of different dimensions and forms hovering above. The Sigriya Rock stood at one side like a huge headstone and a huge white Buddha statue on the other. Lying down on the top staring around this beauty trying to take it all in made us meditative. We could have laid there for hours but sudden droplets of rain made us sit up and start our journey downwards, as the fear of those slippery narrow ledges lurked on our minds. Fortunately, we had on our side not only the rain gods but also gravity to quicken our walk down before the darkness set in. So we return all tired out, with a feeling of new found achievement of having conquered a rock. This was an experience not to be missed and a must visit for every Sri Lankan traveller who wishes to walk the untrodden path.

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